Photo & © by: James E. Tanner

niedziela, 25 lipca 2010

LESS OFFICIAL HISTORY

Present unquestionable success of Bourgognes, owe a lot to Frank Schoonmaker, a writer, importer and gentleman spy who did as much to educate American wine drinkers as anyone before or since.
Mr. Schoonmaker's passion for wine was fueled by his friendship with Raymond Baudoin, editor of La Revue du Vin de France, then as now the most influential French wine publication. The young American traveled to wine regions throughout France with Mr. Baudoin,. Burgundy became his special passion.
Before World War II, most local growers sold their young wine in casks to big négociants in the Burgundian town of Beaune, who would blend and bottle under their own labels. Messrs. Baudoin and Schoonmaker encouraged their favorite growers to bottle their own wines, a relatively radical concept at the time.
After the war was over, Mr. Schoonmaker' was ultimately discharged with the rank of colonel, and to this day he is still referred to as Le Colonel by Burgundian old timers.
In a 1947 Gourmet piece about red Burgundy, he makes clear his preference for the wines of that region over Bordeaux:

Heartwarming and joyeux, heady, big of body,
magnificent and Rabelesian, this is Burgundy


he writes. (one may question "big of body," but this is his story.)
He continues:

The most celebrated poet of Bordeaux, Biarnez, wrote of the châteaux and the wines so dear to his heart in cool and measured Alexandrines reminiscent of Racine.

Burgundy is celebrated in bawdy tavern songs.

No doubt where the man's heart lies. In fact he seems to be saying that Bordeaux has no heart, that it's all head.

by courtesy: JAY MCINERNEY

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