Photo & © by: James E. Tanner

niedziela, 25 lipca 2010

WHY BURGUNDY ?

It is widely belived in France, that Paris is France's brain, its soul is Champagne, but the stomach is definitely Bourgogne (Burgundy).
Furthermore, this is the only one region, all over the world, where one may enjoy at the same time:
Greatest world's wines
Greatest world's gastronomy
Greatest monuments of our contemporary, mediterranean civilisation.

JOIE DE VIVRE

Bourgogne seems to be, a great destination to understand the true meaning of expression:
JOIE DE VIVRE

"Joie de vivre" is much more that simple " life's joy", these are not the words which counts, but the whole life's philosophy. Philosophy which one may understand only after spending some time in Bourgogne.
The same applies to the wines. We never say here simply "wine", but istead would always use: "bourgogne". Bourgogne (burgundy) is much more than just a wine, it is the philosophy of wine. Philosphy of wine which one may understand only after spending some time in Bourgogne.
In France, at the time of making a selection and buying wine for dinner, we usually have to decide whether we intend to purchase "wine" ? or "bourgogne" ?
These are two different categories !

BORDEAUX vs BOURGOGNES (1)

In the magic world of wines, there are only two names which really counts.
These are: Bordeaux and Bourgogne
Both of them are from France, however they are totally different one from the other, not only because of their size (Bourgogne is much smaller), but as well following the fact that they are using totally different grapes for the wines production processes. In Burgundy these are pinot noir, for red wines and chardonnay for white wines, while all wines are mono-cépage.

Unlike Bordeaux, a region of vast estates owned by wealthy families and corporations, the typical Burgundian wine grower, then as now, owned a few acres of vines. Thanks to marriage and inheritance, the typical family's holdings were scattered among different vineyards.
When visiting a chateau in Bordeaux, one seldom may meet the owner, although he / she would be always guided through the property by the most professional staff like marketing manager or PR manager or sales manager etc.
On the other hand, when in Burgundy, a welcoming winemaker usually would be your host. You will easily notice mud on its shoes, wine on his hands and name on the bottle. The Burgundian winegrower will make it a point of honour to transmit his passion for wine to you.

NEW YORK TIMES (May, 2010):
Among wine enthousiasts's of younger generation enjoying burgundy became more trendy and fashionable.
Bordeaux seem to be too much Rolex and Rolls Royce type.

I. Bottle shape.
Bordeaux:
The high shouldered 'Bordeaux Bottle' is used by most wineries for cabernet sauvignon merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and most of Bordeaux blends. The Bordeaux bottle is also generally used for sauvignon blanc and semillon.
Burgundy: The slope shouldered 'Burgundy Bottle' is generally used for chardonnay and pinot noir around the world.

BORDEAUX vs BOURGOGNES (2)

II. Color.
Bordeaux wines have a dark purple and almost opaque color, while the Burgundy wines have a bright and clear ruby red color.

III. Label:
In general [ however it is not a 100% rule ], “Château” means that it is Bordeaux and a “Domaine” is a wine from Burgundy.

BORDEAUX vs BOURGOGNES (3)

IV. Nose & taste
Many red Bordeaux wines are rich, bodied, thick, and have a certain weight.
Bourgogne red wines are fruity, tart, and a less pronounced roughness.
This originates with the grapes used.
There are 8 varietals allowed in Bordeaux:
Red wines:
- cabernet sauvignon: Gives bitter wines good for lonag maturation, with typical herbaceous or green bell pepper flavor
- merlot: in the traditional Bordeaux blend, merlot's role is to add body and softness .
- cabernet franc: is lighter than cabernet sauvignon, making a bright pale red wine and contributing finesse and a peppery perfume to blends with more robust grapes.
- petit verdot: it is added in small amounts to add tannin, colour and flavour to the blend.
- malbec: brings very deep color, amle tannin, and a particular plum-like flavor component to add complexity to Bordeaux blends.
For the great millesimes, their best ageing is even after 20 years and over. Traditionally regarded as the best investment wines.
White Bordeaux:
sauvignon blanc: in general gives wines crisp, elegant, and fresh with grassy flavors
sémillon : the sémillon grape is rather heavy, with low acidity and an almost oily texture. It has a high yield and wines based on it can age a long time
muscadelle: it has a simple aroma of grape juice and raisins
Red Burgundy wines (except the gamay variteal) are 100% made with pinot noir . It is widely considered to produce some of the finest wines in the world, but is a difficult variety to cultivate and transform into wine. Bourgognes are considered to be [ among other red wines ] the most elegant. This is due to their finesse and light structure. The tremendously broad range of bouquets, flavors, textures and impressions that pinot noir can produce is totally unique. Traditional red Burgundy is famous for its fleshy, 'farmyard' aromas, but changing fashions and new easier-to-grow clones have favoured a lighter, fruitier style. Domnating fruits flavorea are these of cherry, raspberry, or currant.
It is drank, usually after 5 years, except for the “Grand Cru” which will fully mature after 10 years and longer.
White Burgundy wines are 100 % (except of aligoté) are 100% made of chardonnay variety.
Traditionally in Bourgogne, both fermenation, as well as maturation & ageing are processed in the barrels. Wines are always round, flavors are highly concentrated ( white fruits, white flowers, marzipan, hazelnut). In addition to being the most expensive, the Burgundy examples of chardonnay were long considered the benchmark standard of expressing terroir through chardonnay.

KIR

This is the most famous and typical burgundian aperitif, invented by Felix Kir, first Dijon's Mayor after WWII.
Kir is composed of dry white wine (preferably Aligoté) and Créme de Cassis in the proportions 1 x cassis to 3-5 x wine, depending on your taste (more cassis = more sweet).
In France it is usually drunk as an aperitif before a meal or snack.
Originally the wine used was Bourgogne Aligoté, a lesser white wine of Burgundy. Nowadays, various white wines are used throughout France, according to the region and the whim of the barkeeper. Many prefer a white Chardonnay-based Burgundy, such as Chablis.
Although Kir Royal (made with champagne) was not invented in Burgundy, it becomes more and more popular. It's birthplace is believed to be the famous Maxim's restaurant in Paris, by one of the waiters, who had a wonderful idea to repalce in the standard Kir, the Aligoté, by champagne brut.

How to make a Kir Royal

Kir Variations
Besides the basic Kir, a number of variations exist:

• Kir Royal - made with champagne
• Kir Pétillant - made with sparkling wine
• Communard/Cardinal - made with red wine instead of white
• Kir Imperial - made with raspberry liqueur instead of cassis, and champagne
• Kir Normand - made with Normandy cider instead of wine.
• Kir Breton - made with Breton cider instead of wine.
• Cidre Royal - made with cider instead of wine, with a measure of calvados added.
• Hibiscus Royal - made with sparkling wine, peach liqueur, raspberry liqueur, and an edible hibiscus flower. Also noted with sparkling wine and pear schnaps.
• Kir Pèche - made with peach liqueur.
• Pamplemousse - made with red grapefruit liqueur and sparkling white wine, which gives a slightly tart alternative.
• Tarantino - made with lager or light ale ("kir-beer").

When ordering a Kir, waiters in France sometimes ask whether you want it made with crème de cassis (black currant), de mûre (blackberry) or de pèche (peach).

TERROIR

In Burgundy, the geological origin and the physical and chemical composition of the soils are highly diversified and vary from one vineyard to another, but also within the same vineyard, the same village and the same locality. This explains why the Burgindian vineyard is like an immense mosaic made up of thousands of plots of land (called ‘climates’ in this context), often very small indeed (Romanée is the smallest appellation in the world with 0.8 hectare).
In spite of this diversity of soils, Burgundy has a certain unity of geology and soil and climate conditions from north to south: sedimentary soils composed of clay, marls and limestone, deposited here 150 million years ago in the Jurassic period on an even older substrate (250 million years ago) composed of granite, lava, gneisses and a variety of schist. The decomposition of marine sedimentary rocks is thus at the origin of the clay-limestone soils on which the Burgundian grape varieties can express their personalities to the full.

• The pinot noir loves well-drained marl and limestone soils on which, depending on the proportion of limestone and the situation of the plot, it will produce a light, elegant red or a powerful, vigorous wine.

• The chardonnay
prefers marly-limestone soils that are quite clayey, where it develops all its elegance and smooth flavours. It is the proportion of clay in the soil which determines the more or less aromatic, full style of the great dry white wines of Burgundy.

If the nature of the soil is the key element of the terroir, many other natural factors have an influence on the quality, typicity and expression of a wine: the exposure to the sun of the plot of land, its altitude, the depth and drainage of the soil, the climatic conditions of the year, the micro climate and so on
Lastly, the role of man is a determining factor in the production of an appellation d’origine contrôlée wine: from the vine, with the choice and practical application of the cultivation methods, and pruning to the grape harvest, and in the cellar during the winemaking maturation process.

by courtesy: BIVB

AOC

The terroir, in Burgundy, is the basis of the Appellation Origine Controllée
It was wine growers, aided by enormous effort of monks who discovered, identified and then developed the terroirs
.Centuries of hard work were necessary for this concept, whose origin goes back to the early Middle Ages, to be passed down to us and be officially recognized and described in the middle of the last century with the creation of the I.N.A.O. and appellations of origin.
The basis of terroir is above all the sub-soil and soil from which the vine draws its nutrients and which create a secret alchemy of colours, aromas and flavours. It enjoys an exceptional range of natural production conditions, thanks to which a highly diverse range of can be found today.
AOC is a symbol of quality, guaranteeing the production characteristics: the terroir of origin, which is used as the basis for the means of classification of the appellations, the production method, the history of the product, and the expertise of the producer. Each AOC is subjected to rigorous controls at all stages of production and marketing.
Burgundy has 100 appellations, out of more than the 477 in France as a whole, and these are divided into 4 levels of appellation:
Regional appellations: 23 in number, these are harvested throughout the Burgundy wine-growing area (eg. Bourgogne Aligoté)
Local appellations: there are 44 of these, produced in winegrowing villages which give them their name (eg. Chablis, Pommard)
Premier Cru appellations: these wines are produced in precisely delimited plots within a village known as "climates"�. Burgundy has 635 climates.On the bottles, the name of the village is followed by the name of the plot from which the wine was produced (eg. Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Les Vaucrains)
Grand Cru appellations: these wines are grown on the best plots (climates) in the villages. There are 33 Grands Cru (32 in Cote d'Or villages. There are 33 Grands Cru (32 in Cote d'Or and 1 in Chablis)
They express and concentrate all the richness of their unique terroirs. Here, the name of the village disappears in favour of the name of the terroir only, which is often very limited (eg. Corton, Montrachet).These appellations are spread across the Burgundy vineyard, which has a production area of 27,636 hectares (3% of all vineyards in France) : 61% are white wines and 31% are red wines (or rosés), 8% are sparkling wines.

by courtesy: BIVB

OFFICIAL HISTORY

The wines from Bourgogne boast a longer history than any others.
Here are some key dates in the long winegrowing history of Bourgogne, listed in
chronological order:
312 Eumenesis Discourses: oldest known documented reference
1395 Duke Philip the Bold publishes ordinance governing wine quality in Bourgogne
1416: Edict of King Charles setting the boundaries of Bourgogne as a wine producing wine area
1760 Prince Conti acquires the "Domaine de La Romanée", which now bears his name.
1789 French Revolution. Church-owned vineyards confiscated and auctioned off as national property
1847 King Louis-Philippe grants the village of Gevrey the right to add its name to its most famous cru Chambertin. Other villages were quick to follow.
1851 First auction of wines grown on the Hospices de Beaune estate
1861 First classification of wines by Beaune's Agricultural Committee
1875 Phylloxera first detected in Bourgogne
1936 Morey-Saint-Denis becomes the first AOC in Bourgogne
1975 Appellation of Crémant de Bourgogne is born

by courtesy: BIVB

SPECIAL DATE:
VOLNAY lovers day "ELEGANCE DES VOLNAYS" is traditionally held every last Saturday of June, in.............VOLNAY

LESS OFFICIAL HISTORY

Present unquestionable success of Bourgognes, owe a lot to Frank Schoonmaker, a writer, importer and gentleman spy who did as much to educate American wine drinkers as anyone before or since.
Mr. Schoonmaker's passion for wine was fueled by his friendship with Raymond Baudoin, editor of La Revue du Vin de France, then as now the most influential French wine publication. The young American traveled to wine regions throughout France with Mr. Baudoin,. Burgundy became his special passion.
Before World War II, most local growers sold their young wine in casks to big négociants in the Burgundian town of Beaune, who would blend and bottle under their own labels. Messrs. Baudoin and Schoonmaker encouraged their favorite growers to bottle their own wines, a relatively radical concept at the time.
After the war was over, Mr. Schoonmaker' was ultimately discharged with the rank of colonel, and to this day he is still referred to as Le Colonel by Burgundian old timers.
In a 1947 Gourmet piece about red Burgundy, he makes clear his preference for the wines of that region over Bordeaux:

Heartwarming and joyeux, heady, big of body,
magnificent and Rabelesian, this is Burgundy


he writes. (one may question "big of body," but this is his story.)
He continues:

The most celebrated poet of Bordeaux, Biarnez, wrote of the châteaux and the wines so dear to his heart in cool and measured Alexandrines reminiscent of Racine.

Burgundy is celebrated in bawdy tavern songs.

No doubt where the man's heart lies. In fact he seems to be saying that Bordeaux has no heart, that it's all head.

by courtesy: JAY MCINERNEY

VINOTHERAPY

Wine grapes are the perfect fruit for skin conditioning, as they are very high in antioxidants, particularly polyphenols and resveratol.
In France, in 1990 Professor Vercauteren discovered that the grape seeds discarded at the end of the grape harvest contained powerful anti-aging properties. The grape seeds contain polyphenols which, once stabilized, have priceless benefits for the skin. The anti-oxidants contained in grape seed polyphenols have an incredible capacity to fight free radicals, and therefore fight skin aging. The free-radical protection from grape seed polyphenols is unequalled in the plant world.
In 1999, Caudalie opened its first spa at the Château Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards near Bordeaux.
A vinotherapy center is successfully operating as well in Meursault. Here masseuses use artisanal wine-making rakes to massage energy paths on the spine:

• Baths and Wraps: treatments to infiltrate the tissues, physiologically eliminating water and activating the circulation thanks to extracts of red grapevines and biological essential oils.

• Therapeutic Massage: the massages are carried out with essential oils and extra-fine grape seed oil which well known for its nutritional and softening properties. This oil keeps the skin hydrated and restores its elasticity.

• Facial treatment: aimed at achieving firmer, healthier and more attractive skin, these treatments use stabilized polyphenols that increase collagen and elastine production. The polyphenols also combat free radicals which are the main cause of skin aging.

VIDEO

GASTRONOMY

The flagships of Burgundian gastronomy are :
* escargots
* boeuf Charolais
* volaille de Bresse
* fresh water fish, frogs etc
* la pochouse
* fromages
* moutarde de Dijon
* pain d'epices de Dijon
* kir & crème de cassis.
Beef Charolais – is totally white, very large (up to 1 200 kg), and is possessing its own appellation controllée. The meat is almost fatless and extremely tasty. It is a base for tradional burgundian dishes like cote du boeuf, boeuf bourguignon, entrecote and steak tartare.
Fromages (cheese) – there are many of them, while the most original ones are:
· Citeaux – monk's cheese, very limited in quantity as produced in only one place which is Abbaye des Citeaux. Delicate.
· Epoisses – pink coloured and not as delicate like the previous one. Rather to the contrary. Both: Citeaux and Epoisses are having their own, strictly controlled appellations
· To be cited as well: Mont d'Or, Le Regale Bourguignon (sweet) as well as great goat chesses (best buy in goat farms BIO).
Moutarde de Dijon – in order to really "understand" this famous mustard, a vist to ancient factory of Moutarderie Fallot in Beaune is necessary. After such a visit you will easily fin the difference between the moutarde de Dijon from supermarkets and the original one from Burgundy.
La pochouse – fish soup, made of large pieces of various fresh water fishes boiled in Aligoté or Chardonnay, served with warm toasts.
SlowFood - this world's trendy organization is not known in Bourgogne at all ! Reason ? Practically all food here, is produced and prepared following SlowFood standards. That's all. C'est tout.
But if you'd like to be 100% certain, try one of local Fermes-Auberges, officially certified AB (Agriculture Biologique).

LA PAULEE, LARGEST WINE PARTY IN THE WORLD

La Paulée is a Burgundian celebration held at the end of the grape harvest.
This was once a widespread practice throughout France but now most often refers to the festivities held in Meursault. La Paulée de Meursault is part of Les Trois Glorieuses, the three glorious days, that take place around Beaune on the third weekend of each November. The first day centers on a Saturday banquet hosted by the Confrèrie des Chevaliers du Tastevin at the Château du Clos Vougeot. On Sunday, the renowned auction of Hospices de Beaune wines is held in the beautiful fifteenth century Hôtel-Dieu. The grand finale of this oenophilic trilogy is La Paulée, an extravagant luncheon that starts at noon on Monday at the Château de Meursault and continues well into the evening.
The modern day La Paulée was initiated by Jules Lafon, one of Burgundy's most respected wine growers. In 1923, he decided to revive the traditional grape harvest celebration to which, in the Middle Ages, Cistercian monks invited their vineyard laborers. That same year, Jules Lafon held his first Paulée at his Meursault Domaine. Neighboring viticulturists decided that Lafon had an excellent idea, and over the next few years La Paulée de Meursault expanded rapidly. By 1932, it was officially established as a fixed annual event.
Over the years, La Paulée has changed a bit from the original communal banquet for growers and their workers. Though such vineyard celebrations with harvest participants have continued, the official La Paulée has become a grand gala attended by Meursault growers and producers along with other wine connoisseurs. It is a privilege to attend and reservations are mostly made a year in advance.
A special feature of La Paulée de Meursault is that everyone brings wine. This, no doubt, makes it the world's classiest BYOB party. A friendly but intense competition reigns as bottles are uncorked, shared and imbibed. Anyone who appreciates fine eating and drinking should try to attend this event, which captures the essence of Burgundy's joie de vivre.

by courtesy: Daniel Johnnes

FAIRY TALE

Following a very good and successfull grape harvests, Persian King Jamshid ordered to put all grapes into jars and to write on top of them:
POISON

so the precious grapes would not be stolen.
However being too much preoccupied with foreign affairs and economic crisis in his kingdom, he completely forgets about the jars containing grapes of the last harvest.
At the same time the most pretty houri of his harem, being jealous for the king after
loosing his favors and feeling that he does not love her any longer, takes the most dramatic decision:

she wants to commit suicide.

Now therefore, she drunk the fermented juice, from one of the jars. Juice which she
believed was supposed to be poison.
But to her bigggest surpize instead of dying, she became happy, full of positive energy
as well as optimism....
As soon as the king was informed about such development, as well as he found the same reactions in himself, he again offered his favors to the pretty houri.
They simply became a truly happy couple again.
Since that time the wine is not any longer called the poison, but provides happiness
and love to all of us.
The wine opens all hearts to love... but bourgogne specifically.

Copyright © by Adam Stankiewicz, VINTRIPS , 2010